My husband’s continuing adventure 1000 miles into Mexico, from San Diego to Los Barilles…
First leg of the trip we made our way from San Diego to Gonzaga Bay, you can read about it here. Now we are making our way to Punta Abreojos.
We left out of Gonzaga Bay in the morning, heading south. We ran out of pavement and started a 25 mile crossing on dirt road to Highway 1. There is an extensive amount of road and bridge construction going on due to heavy rains and flooding from recent hurricanes. In addition to the road damage from flooding, there is also a great deal of road construction going on connecting the east side highway to Highway 1.
Went by a very out of the way outpost called Coco’s Corner. It is in the middle of absolutely nowhere, but on the path of the Baja 1000. It is an oasis of cold beer and a guest book in the middle of the desert.
We cruised through cattle country, hitting Highway 1 and continuing south towards Guerrero Negro. This town is located near Scammons Lagoon, where Captain Charles Melville Scammons, back in 1857 discovered gray whales breeding there. They aggressively hunted them until 1872, when whale hunting was abandoned there. Today the area is protected, creating a perfect whale breeding ground and an amazing place for visitors to be able to come in close contact with the whales.
Random fact: the area is used for the harvesting of salt at the biggest salt works plant in the world.
On this day we stopped into the Malarrimo Motel in Guerrero Negro for breakfast. Now the beaches of Malarrimo are located in such a way that currents from the north, as far away as Japan, push large quantities of ocean debris onto the beaches. When you go into the restaurant and bar at the motel, you will find it curiously decorated with a wide variety of treasures that have washed up on the beach over time. Very odd collection of randomness, worth taking a peek.
Back in the day Guerrero Negro was the best place to stop and fuel up and gather supplies. The nearby town of Vizcaino has grown a lot and will also support your supply needs.
It took us another 30 miles or so to hit the turn off for Punta Abreojos. The beach is 50 miles from the turn off. This used to be a rugged, washboard dirt road with many washed out arroyos to cross. I was pleasantly surprised to see it now nicely paved.
Everything is really green right now, highly unusual here. The combination of hurricanes and afternoon thunderstorms have unleashed a variety of plant life.
As you follow the road out to Punta Abreojos, you can see parts of Bahia San Ignacio, which is also a whale rich lagoon.
So why are we heading here? We are in search of really good consistent south swells and excellent right point breaks, as well as plentiful fishing. Punta Abreojos has all the amenities you would need: grocery stores, gas stations, beer, as well as a desalinization plant providing fresh filtered water and ice.
Abreojos is a serious fishing town, with locals harvesting California spiny lobster and abalone. For visitors there are both offshore opportunities to catch dorado, yellow tail, wahoo, halibut and inshore fishing for calico bass, corvina, and other light tackle varieties.
We arrived at the point at low tide in the afternoon. Went for a quick surf to wash the road dust off. Tide was extremely low with a lot of exposed reef making for somewhat tricky surfing.
We stayed at the house of a friend in town; ocean view with beer and food close. Can’t ask for more than that.
Surf was small so we fished down the beach by an old house that sits by itself. Once upon a time it belonged to baseball legend and WWII ace fighter pilot, Ted Williams. He was also an extremely avid fisherman and was down here before anyone else. When I first started coming here his was the only house for miles around. Although the point is more populated now, the house still sits quietly on its own. We caught corvina off the beach, then made our way to Campo Renee, a small camp at a river mouth estuary that has great mangroves. Accessing the mangroves by boat is your best option.
We stopped to pull a local out of the mud, finally got him out. Talked to some folks from Utah with a boat. They had done well in the mangroves, catching corvina, mangrove snapper and different types of grouper.
Next stop, San Juanico. Surfers refer to it as Scorpion Bay, known for epic world class right point break.
There are two ways to get to San Juanico from Punta Abreojos; the shorter way (3-4 hours) – San Ignacio to the tidal flats road that connects to a dirt road going to San Juanico or the longer way around (6-7 hours) – San Ignacio to Santa Rosalia, then south on the gulf side to make a wider circle back.
While we were there we had extreme high and low tides, flooding many of the usual roads, forcing us to take the long way around.
Beautiful tropical town, situated on a river. The gateway to Bahia San Ignacio, an eco tourism destination also known for whale watching.
After San Ignacio, we hit the town of Santa Rosalia on the gulf side. While the copper mines were shut down here back in the 50’s, none of the infrastructure was ever removed.
Traveling south on Bahia Concepcion. Water is clear enough to see fish from the road above as you drive by.
In the picture below, you can’t see it but the larger boat is circling a whale shark in the bay.
Once we reached the town of Loreto we cut back, headed west towards Cuidad Insurgentes. We fuel up, now head north to finally get to our next surf spot – San Juanico, aka Scorpion Bay.
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